Sewing Sewing a Mask | Updated Version
First version of this tutorial (sewing without elastics) is available here.
This mask was created using the pattern provided by AFNOR (French Standardization Association) here :
www.afnor.org.
I added an opening at the bottom to have a possibility to insert a filter, just like if it was a pillowcase.
Unlike the mask with the central stitch, this model is less fitted and as a result a little less classy. But having sewed, worn and offered both, I finally find this one more comfortable in the long run: it's a bit like a difference between wearing a tight pencil skirt and a cotton hippie dress =) And since once outside it's better to not to touch the mask, I find this model more versatile: you can laugh, talk and even scream without having to adjust it.
Good sewing,
Ania.
1. Preparing the pattern
Prepare your pattern: a square 20 by 20 cm (8 x 8 inches), with the marks for future folds.
The pleat steps: 25 mm – 25 mm – 25 mm – 50 mm – 25 mm – 25 mm – 25 mm
(in inches it looks like this: 1 – 1 – 1 – 2 – 1 – 1 – 1)
The pleat steps: 25 mm – 25 mm – 25 mm – 50 mm – 25 mm – 25 mm – 25 mm
(in inches it looks like this: 1 – 1 – 1 – 2 – 1 – 1 – 1)
2. Preparing the fabric
Important: Preferably use tightly woven cotton fabrics. Cotton sateen and cotton percale, as here, seem to me to be very suitable fabrics.
Wash, dry and cut your fabric, adding a little margin for sewing.
I went like this:
- a 21 x 21 cm square of inner fabric (8,3 in x 8,3 in)
- a 21 x 23 cm rectangle of outer fabric (8,3 in x 9 in)
I've added an extra 2 cm on the bottom of the outer square to make the flap (which will turn our mask into a miniature pillowcase =)
Wash, dry and cut your fabric, adding a little margin for sewing.
I went like this:
- a 21 x 21 cm square of inner fabric (8,3 in x 8,3 in)
- a 21 x 23 cm rectangle of outer fabric (8,3 in x 9 in)
I've added an extra 2 cm on the bottom of the outer square to make the flap (which will turn our mask into a miniature pillowcase =)
3. Straps & Bottom Hems
If you have elastic: prepare two strips of 23 cm each.
Otherwise, to make fabric straps, cut a strip of fabric 3 cm wide and at least 1 metre long (1 x 40 inches)
Make the hems at the bottom of each piece of fabric, this will allow us to have a neat opening.
Otherwise, to make fabric straps, cut a strip of fabric 3 cm wide and at least 1 metre long (1 x 40 inches)
Make the hems at the bottom of each piece of fabric, this will allow us to have a neat opening.
4. Assembling
Fold the flap (excess of the outer square) to the right side of the fabric, then assemble the two squares obtained right against right.
5. Elastic insert and perimeter sewing
You can pre-fix your elastics with the pins or using small stitches in the 4 corners of the mask as shown in the picture.
I put them in place on-the-fly, while sewing the perimeter, this seems to me the easiest and fastest way to do it.
Make a perimeter stitching on all three sides, just like we were making a pillowcase. Be sure to take the elastic in the seam. There is no need to reinforce the seam in these places, it will be done automatically when we will sew pleats.
I put them in place on-the-fly, while sewing the perimeter, this seems to me the easiest and fastest way to do it.
Make a perimeter stitching on all three sides, just like we were making a pillowcase. Be sure to take the elastic in the seam. There is no need to reinforce the seam in these places, it will be done automatically when we will sew pleats.
Once the perimeter sewing is done, you can cut the two upper corners (opposite the opening) to avoid excess fabric in this place.
Turn your mask inside out, ensuring that the corners are turned properly, and iron it (never underestimate the importance of ironing in sewing =)
6. Pleats Reporting
Once ironed, transfer the pleats from your pattern to the mask.
7. Final stitching
Secure the pleats before proceeding to the final stitching. It looks tricky, but in fact it is not (on the picture, the blue tree fabric is on the outside, the grey fabric is on the inside of the mask).
Sew on both sides (those with pleats and elastics). I do a double stitching to avoid excess tension on one thread.
Sew on both sides (those with pleats and elastics). I do a double stitching to avoid excess tension on one thread.
8. Slot for a nose clip
Once these seams are done, your mask is ready to be worn. Nevertheless (especially if you wear glasses!), a thin metal bar can be inserted in the nose area.
To do so, all you need is a simple seam ~8 cm (3 in) long at 0.5-1 cm (0.4 in) from the edge at the top of your mask.
To do so, all you need is a simple seam ~8 cm (3 in) long at 0.5-1 cm (0.4 in) from the edge at the top of your mask.
I've seen the makers use freezer bag slices, metal plant ties and other solutions, each more ingenious than the other.
For my part I use pipe cleaners =)
It does the job, it's soft and fluffy, and I find this object pretty cute.
For my part I use pipe cleaners =)
It does the job, it's soft and fluffy, and I find this object pretty cute.
Don't hesitate to adjust the length of the elastics to fit your morphology. From experience, it is better to place the knot towards the bottom of the ear so that it doesn't bother you.
9. Filter
Place your filter inside while wearing your mask (here I used a simple paper towel). Don't forget to throw it away carefully before washing your mask.
And most importantly, wash your mask after each use.
Do not forget to wash your mask if it is a gift for someone ♥
And most importantly, wash your mask after each use.
Do not forget to wash your mask if it is a gift for someone ♥
About Le Châle Bleu {The Blue Shawl}
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Don't hesitate to write to me if you have any questions or ideas on how to improve this pattern (or my translation of this text. Sorry if there are mistakes, I did my best). You can also find me on Instagram @lechalebleu, I will be happy to discuss with you about masks, shawls, scarves or just nice weather =)
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